January 25th
Hurunui Hut(1307.1)-Locke Stream Hut(1322)
Mileage: 14.9mi/24km
Campsite Elevation: 1676ft/511m
It seemed to be clearing so we started packing up. When we were about to leave at 10:30am, another round of rain came down, so we sat back down to wait it out. Not long after, it completely cleared and we had blue skies. It was so worth waiting to hike out in that instead of rain.
The rest of the day was fairly uneventful, which was greatly welcomed. I’ve been wanting to just walk and that is mostly what we got to do today. No pushing to beat some rain or uncomfortable weather to hike through. Yes, the trail was still soggy, but it was warm enough to be in shorts, so it wasn’t bothersome. The terrain was a mixed bag, but still something we could keep an average pace on and feel like we weren’t draining ourselves. It was enjoyable and finally uneventful for most of the day.
We did go by a natural hot spring known for having tons of sandflies, so few people actually stay to soak. We didn’t notice many while we were there, I’m not much of a soaker, but I stood in it just for fun. Check me out in a hot spring!
At the end of the day, we had the climb over Harper’s Pass, which was pretty gradual and short. The terrain got slower on each side of the pass with more rocky terrain and quite a bit of spills or washed out trail. We’d heard some portions of the trail had been washed out by the weather bomb about a week ago. There were two somewhat sketchy exposed spills to walk across, but they were short and grippy, so they weren’t bad.
Thankfully the crossings today were all small swollen side streams and nothing was difficult. There were also a few suspension bridges and one wire crossing where you basically balance on a metal tightrope. Yeah, it freaked me out.
The slowest part of the day was the descent from Harpers Pass. It was steep and rocky with loose footing for about an hour and was more taxing than expected. Then the trail seemed to have been washed out in some places as we just hugged the side of the Taramakau River on the way down. It was encouraging that the river wasn’t raging and super loud.
Tomorrow will be the crossings of the Taramakau that we are worried could be too swollen. It rained some the last hour of our day, but not much. We’ve been told that Harpers Pass is the Divide here and the weather on this side (west) is more extreme. It definitely was cloudier on the west side and we had a forecast that said the rain over the last 24hrs was heavier on this side. We got to our destination, Locke Stream Hut, around 6:30pm. The hut holds 15 and only one other TA couple, Steve and Amelie, were there that I’ve overlapped a bit from time to time since day one. We are all hopeful that we can cross the multiple crossings of the Taramakau tomorrow. I checked the weather using my inReach and the next bout of rain may come midday tomorrow. We are all going to get an early start in hopes of making the crossings before heavy rain falls. There went our relaxing hiking. At least we had one day mostly without stress today. Here are more shots from the day.
Steve and Amelie feel the same as we do. They were part of that group last week that were stuck at Blue Lake Hut for three days waiting for water levels to drop only to get to the Ada River and find it impassible, so the local homestead people that were coincidentally driving out another direction got them out safely. We all just want to walk without such uncomfortable conditions, carrying days of extra food, and having the unknown of if we will be blocked in by high waters with no idea where or how many crossings are ahead tomorrow. I read back on both Why Not and Buck-30’s journals. They had similar experiences in this section. Buck-30’s sounded brutal with really cold and wet conditions. I wonder if anyone does this section and doesn’t deal with some kind of stress or strife.
As for my foot, it was even better than yesterday. I’m hoping it will eventually fully heal and that it’s nothing major. I think it’s just a swollen ligament from having my shoelace too tight. There is some visible swelling, but it’s less each day and I actually had moments today that I didn’t have pain with every step. It was aggravated again at the end of the day with the steep jarring descent, but not terribly. I am hopeful that it will heal as I hike. Ok, tomorrow we return to more wet hiking, rain, and river crossings. Whoop-dee-do…
I will say that at the end of the day today, when it was raining and we had washed out trail that was slower going, out of nowhere Griggs said, “Even with the rain there really is nothing else I can think of that I’d rather be doing right now.” It’s nice to hike with someone who enjoys hiking so much and really appreciates all aspects, even when it isn’t the most comfortable.
My heart started to race when I saw the photo of you on the wire crossing!
Mine too!
Those views are just amazing!! And I’m glad your foot is starting to feel better!
Every thru-hike has its challenges… it might be Erin you will just have to accept that on this one, it’s the weather, and the effect it has on the terrain. You are pretty deep into the Southern hemisphere, after all… some walks are very long, some go very high, this time it’s the water and mud!
Having said that, you are still going like a train it seems to me. And not forgetting those lovely huts!
I so nice to see photos of you. Thanks Griggs.
Re foot: can you take vitamin I. Works like a charm for this older gentleman.
Haha, I did do a couple of those;)
I once met an older chap with a heavily strapped knee who said that Voltaren was the “drug of choice” for walkers our age.
Yikes, I think I’d prefer that wire crossing to edging across that recent spill/washout. But you did both and loads more so I’m in awe!
That wire bridge would totally be my undoing!!
Griggs should have some challenges on most any Western U.S. trail following the TA. The weather .. actually in most of the country, has bee nothing less than crazy this winter. Always challenges.
Nice to hear how much Griggs enjoys being out there.
On shows, I am sorry you weren’t drawn into This is Us. It has become such a favorite and they have already gotten a 2 season renewal. Seems like your show watching times have been more limited lately, since The Weather Show has loomed so large.
Yeah, Griggs did the PCT with some snow and is familiar with CO snow, so he’s up for whatever comes his way. I may have to give This Is Us another try. I did three episodes and it didn’t stick.
Well it may not be your cup of tea, but I think it keeps getting better. So many programs to choose from.
Have you tried Code Black? That has become a favorite of mine. of course I still love Grey’s..
Celebrating women athletes in the Southern Hemisphere.. you and Becky, others on that difficult trail, and watching the women’s final of the Aussie Open tennis.. I have watched both players for so many years, even in person early in their careers.
Oh man, I can’t believe I’m missing that match! The documentary in Netflix on Venus and Serena is good!
I actually met Venus when she was first in tournaments. I used to go to the one that was then in Manhattan Beach and was in the garage between sessions and she was all by herself, walking. I told her I really enjoyed seeing her playing and she smiled sweetly and said “I guess I’m getting pretty good”. Yep.
Then Serena started coming to that tournament.. they never entered the same ones except for majors, so we watched Serena get started. Manhattan Beach is really close to Compton, where they used to live.
And tomorrow (or today there?) throwback to Federer vs Nadal. (
GO Federer!)
Serena now has 23 majors! And 7 Australian Opebns!
You missed it, but look what you are doing! DOING, not watching! Major props to you and others out there.
Awesome!
That is one crazy “bridge”. Must have been even more enjoyable with a sore foot.
I didn’t think that Grand Tour would be on Netflix since it’s an Amazon produced show. I’ll have to check that out. I don’t think the Rockies are getting hit quite as hard as the Sierra and Cascades on the west coast, but I’m betting the CDT will be more difficult than usual thus year. The PCT will be next to impossible if this weather pattern keeps up. Tye California snow pack is already above the April 1 average. Still it sounds like he has a goid attitude and will find a hike of his own that he’ll enjoy.
I was mistaken and he did get that one from Amazon Prime. Yeah, he’s aware that the CDT may be better Sobo this year or as a flip flop, but he’s also quite experienced with CO snow and prefers to go through it nobo if possible. Still lots of time.
“Even with the rain there really is nothing else I can think of that I’d rather be doing right now.” That is pretty inspiring. Thanks for sharing Griggs’ comment.
Griggs is going to love going upstream the Deception river…
Sadly we didn’t get to do the Deception.