September 22nd
E of Euro Ridge(139.1)-Telegraph Station(144.7)
Mileage: 5.6mi/9km + 2.2mi/3.5km additional hike to town= 7.8mi/12.5km
The night was the quietest and calmest yet in Australia. Nights like last night, things are so still that I forget I’m even outside when I awake in the middle of the night. I had irresponsibly stayed up late with my good internet connection and slept in this morning since I was in no hurry. Once again, I was well positioned to see sunrise right from my comfy sleeping bag. I don’t think the Bibbulmun Track will have quite this much elevation to see the sunrises and sunsets as well as I have, so I’ve been soaking them up out here on the Larapinta.
Taking in one last sunrise.
I was happy to have found a nice spot well off the trail, but what I didn’t like is that these little burrs were somehow attaching to everything. After getting up a couple times last night to pee, I awoke to all of this stuck to the bottom of my flip flops. I kept finding them on me and my pack all day today. I even still found some after I did laundry later in the day.
With me being on the other side of the world and phone service less frequent, it’s rare that I get service at a time that I can Skype with my nephews while hiking. I love doing this with them and got a chance to do that this morning. As I was hiking and talking to them, the most surprising thing happened! When I rounded a corner, I had a kangaroo right next to me by the trail! I was so excited and shocked and trying to show my nephews at the same time that it took me a bit to then get the camera out for a shot. I’m so excited that they got to see the kangaroo! I think now that they think I see them all the time like at the zoo, but it was exciting.
My first kangaroo sighting!
All morning, I had noticed marks in the trail that I was trying to figure out. I didn’t even think that it could have been a kangaroo tail! After I saw it, I saw the marks all morning and some footprints that looked like this, which I’m guessing is also kangaroo prints. I love that the tail makes a mark in the path!
The hiking was nice with rolling hills all morning and a mostly clear path.
The other big sighting of the day was that when I crossed the railroad tracks towards the end of the trail, a passenger train was actually coming. I knew my nephews would find this way more exciting than the kangaroo, but was in a dip in the trail, so I missed the Skype opportunity. They loved the photos though! Seriously, they are obsessed with all the lines around the world and have Amtrak trains and everything. These photos and the kangaroo pretty much seal the deal as the coolest aunt ever in their minds, ha!
Next up was an overpass with some of the nicest graffiti I’ve seen in awhile. It was the first graffiti I’ve seen all trail and that alone is pretty cool that no one has defaced any of the shelters or signs along the trail.
I will quote John Chapman from the Larapinta Guidebook for this next section of trail along an old rocky road I hiked on. “This was the original ‘road’ from Adelaide to Darwin and the first car passed through here in 1907 in an unsuccessful attempt to cross Australia from south to north. The same two people returned one year later and completed the crossing. Parallel to the road is the Overland Telegraph Line that, from 1872 to 1928, was Australia’s only direct link to the rest of the world. Remnants of the old poles and wire can still be seen.” Pretty cool!
Historic rocky road and remnants of the Overland Telegraph Line.
I made it to the eastern terminus of the Larapinta Trail and fortunately, there was a man that had been running that was kind enough to take my finish photo. Wahoo! What a great and challenging trail! I have to say I totally recommend this trail, and it is incredibly unique and exposes you to what I feel is the heart of Australia that few truly get to experience. I will say that I recommend people take more days than I did. I felt that I would have done more side trips and would have liked more relaxed days. Many take at least 12 days to do the hike and that makes a lot of sense if you have the time to do it at a more relaxed pace. With the ability to cache through a company a few times over the trail, it really does give a lot more flexibility in having shorter carries between resupplies rather than carrying all 9 days like I did. It’s a welcoming trail, but also quite quite challenging with the unknown weather factor always playing a major role. I’m sure this is one that I could return to and have a completely different experience each time with so many variables and changes due to weather. I’m really glad I made the effort to come to the more remote Northern Territory of Australia and spend such quality time in the vast and challenging terrain.
Eastern terminus of the Larapinta Trail!
The trail ends just 2.2mi/3.5km from downtown and there is a connector trail that goes along the Todd River and into town. I was excited to make the full loop complete and walk back to the YHA Hostel I left a week and a half ago.
Beautiful public park with many birds, trees, grass, and walking paths.
Two more of the unique birds they have out here.
I was super excited that the normally dry and sandy creek bed of the Todd River was running! It only runs a couple times a year and with that big rain a couple nights ago, it had water in it. There was an article in a local paper that this area has had triple the average amount of yearly rainfall already this year and it hasn’t even hit rainy season apparently. Know that I got a much greener hike than most, from what I was told. It must be a big deal as the kids were quite excited to be playing in it like it was a pool. Don’t they know there could be snakes in there!?!?
The unique sight of the Todd River with water in it!
I was excited to make it to Piccolos for their all day breakfast. One thing I want to point out. I tend to only eat bacon on trail because I don’t love it, but I know the meat and fat is good for me. I just wanted to point out that here, they cook bacon much thicker and pinker. There’s no crunchy bacon out here!
I made it for a hearty breakfast at Piccolo’s in Alice Springs.
When I first came into Alice Springs, it was a Sunday and the place was pretty dead except for many homeless walking around. Midday on a Thursday, it has much more of a small city feel with lots of traffic, restaurants and shops open, and many tourists and shoppers walking around. I had dinner in the same mall area that seemed run down on my first visit, and it was nice and quaint this evening with restaurants open and many out enjoying the evening with lights in the trees (which don’t show up in the photo). It is nicer than the first impression I got last week.
I returned to the YHA and was bummed that when I called last week, the four person room was fully booked and I’d be in the 8 person room. It’s 11:30pm now and it’s nice and quiet in here! I have the earplugs ready to go if needed. It was a happy coincidence that my neighboring bunkmate from last time is also in this room tonight as well. It was fun to see Bianca again and catch up like returning home to a friend.
My view from my “tent” tonight:)
Tomorrow morning is my flight to Perth and then I will take a day or two to figure out my resupply for the Bibbulmun and get caught up on emails and such. I didn’t get as much done as I hoped today, but got lots of important bills and logistics figured out, so it’s good to have some of the more looming things done. The world definitely doesn’t stop spinning when you leave civilization for a week and a half. Nope, that’s for sure! Ok everyone, off we now go to the western coast of Australia!
Can’t wait to see what adventures the next trail holds!
Apparently kangaroos will be around like deer!
Wooo! Congrats and well done completing the LT! I enjoyed going along for the virtual adventure and love all of the photos!
Ditto KatyG and Virginia! 🙂 Hey, what’s the stuff in the bowl at breakfast?
They don’t have ketchup on the tables there and you have to ask and apparently many call it tomato sauce!
How fortunate for you to get to see a kangaroo on your last day of hiking and the train is very pretty too. I can see why your nephews think you are pretty special when you share these experiences with them.
Waiting for the next adventure!!
Really enjoyed following you on this trail! It’s very interesting to see these long hiking trails in other countries up close!
Congratulations on completing hike one, down under. I was surprised it took so long to see a kangaroo but your timing to see the Ghan and water in the Todd was perfect.
So glad that that you have found The Alice a happier place on your return.
I heard kangaroos will be all over on the Bib!
Yep! Definetly the coolest Aunt ever..
Your nephews definitely have the coolest auntie in the world. They’ll realize it over time.
Cheers for your next adventure!
I just sent them a photo of the kangaroo picture on the tail of the Quantas plane I’m on as they are also totally obsessed with all the planes. They love it! So simple at that age.
When we fly to Bali we get to ride on a Hello Kitty plane. Our daughter loves it!
Oh that would be great!
Congrats on completing another adventure and sharing it with all of us curbside readers. Seeing a kangaroo in the wild would be on my bucket list if I was in that part of the world so what an excellent way to end this trip. Instead of scat and tracks, you’ll have tail and tracks to watch for on your next trip. It’s been fun chatting with Leslie about the Bibbulmun as she preps for the same.
Yes, it’s fun that we will be so close to each other!
What you are doing and sharing is so cool. I have enjoyed following you since your 2011 PCT hike. You have taken me to interesting places. I am intrigued to see where all this leads. I wish you the best.
Hi Dennis! It’s just as much fun for me to be along for wherever this ride may lead…
In Texas we call them ‘stickers’. Looks like the same there. Don’t ride your bicycle when they abound. And don’t go barefoot. They’ll leave your foot irritated. That’s all I have to say about stickers. 😉
Ugh, I had one on top of my foot when I got in my tent and I thought something bit me!
What we call stickers here in CA is “goatheads”. Those look particularly knarly. Good thing you have flip flops on.
I just thought I’d mention that often things that are simple are also often beautiful. It is so cool you understand what your nephews like and can surprise and delight them. I think all of the male species loves things that go. Me, I really love all things that fly; planes, birds, even June Bugs!
BTW – That pink parrot is a Galah, or what we call them here in the states, a Rose-breasted Cockatoo. I’m pretty sure that when living with humans they can learn to talk as many parrots do.
Congrats on the big finish! Can’t wait to see what the next trail looks like.
Galah! Someone mentioned that and I couldn’t remember what it was!
Wired! You’re such a rad aunt! It’s awesome that you skype with your nephews and sis while on the trail. My sis has 2 boys, the oldest is almost 2. While I was visiting last, he loved hanging out in my tent and wearing my mosquito net. So cute! Not only do you inspire me to chase my dreams and explore the world, but to also share that with my nephews and be a rad aunt. Keep it up!!
Christy! I’ve often wondered what you’re up to! I’m totally emailing you!
Probably a bit late, but this just popped up on my FB feed… http://www.mrxstitch.com/alice-springs-soft-sculptures/ Wondered if you’re interested in local art when you make it to town on your journeys? Don’t know that I’ve ever heard you mention it but wanted to throw it out there since you’re in a foreign land with folks who probably express themselves in “foreign” ways! (As an artist, it’s my favorite way of learning about other people.)
Thanks for the thought. Yeah, art isn’t something I would prioritize while in town for short stints.
This just arrived in e-mail. How exciting to see and photograph your first kangaroo! ? no kangaroo imoji.. so homage to your recent bull encounter.
Interesting that the train had a camel motif.. ? very cool sight for the nephews.
Those stickers can be a nightmare for humans and dogs alike. We had those when I lived in Cleveland National Forest.
On to the next email and the start of the next adventure.
Haha, I tried to find a kangaroo emoji too!