November 8th
Ahipara(63.6)-Stream N of Waiotehue Road(79.9)
Mileage: 16.3mi/26.7km
Campsite Elevation: 209ft/64m
Elevation chart courtesy of Guthook Hikes Te Araroa App.
It took me awhile to weigh all the options of waiting to hike out with Arisa and Felix or hiking out on my own. There are many factors, but at the end of the day, the weather is good for a tough section and my body wants to hike. By 9am, I said goodbye to Arisa and Felix. We will keep in touch and possibly still be able to hike together further down the trail once they get their trail legs. Particularly Felix, who is a seasoned long distance hiker and just needs to ease into the first week or two. I have a feeling he may fly past me in a few weeks. They plan to leave about a half day after me, which isn’t far at all, so we’ll see how it all pans out.
One thing I have yet to talk about out here is how often people have an opportunity to skip trail or find another mode of transportation. There are some specific spots where kayaking or a shuttle is needed to get over or around a waterway, but that isn’t what I’m referring to. I found out yesterday that many hikers today were taking “the shuttle” out today. There is a 4.5mi/7km road walk from Ahipara to the trailhead of the first forest today, the Herekino Forest. Apparently, there is an opportunity to get a ride to that trailhead instead of walking the road section. This is unfathomable to me as a purist, and my way of thinking is more of an American way of approaching a thru-hike. Which means you hike through and don’t cherry pick. It is actually quite common out here to skip portions of the trail that are road walks. It is crazy to me that it’s gotten to the point that the ride to the trailhead is known as just “the shuttle.” I really can’t say more on this topic as I equate it to people in the real life talking about politics or religion. I just can’t relate to what they may be thinking and I’m sure they feel the same way about me walking the road. I will say that it’s extremely rare to find a hiker that doesn’t either hitch or ride a bike on the longer road walks ahead. I can understand the concept of covering the same ground, and seeing the same scenery, while it’s thought of as just another mode of transportation. They didn’t miss any miles of the trail, they just used a quicker form of transportation, and I can totally see why that would seem ok to people. Not my thing, but I guess I can see the reasoning behind it. I know it is not my place to make any judgment or even comment on this aspect of the trail, but it is part of the trail and something that I should mention because it is such a routine part of it.
Road walk out of town.
Over the next few days, I will pass through three very hilly, brushy, and muddy forests that seem more like a jungle at times. Even on good days with a string of dry weather, it is quite muddy, so I was expecting quite a bit of mud with some heavy overnight rain two nights ago and a fair amount of rain yesterday. I think the Herekino is the tamest of the three.
With two hiking poles, and a fairly light pack, I was fortunate to stay on two feet in the muddy, rooty slip n’ slide. It varied and changed moment to moment. Going from dry packed trail to shoe sucking deep mud, and everything in between. I expected more brush and was quite happy that it seemed to be recently cut back, so at least I wasn’t also pushing through brush and I could see the trail. I saw five other hikers today. First, I ran into a young guy from Holland who had broken a hiking pole the first day of the hike, so he had one pole and was understandably taking more time to keep his balance. After I passed him, I one by one came upon the four in the group I met yesterday that got a ride to the trailhead this morning. There was a clay-like road stretch that was less muddy, and I came upon Suvi (Finland), who was the front of today’s hikers that left from Ahipara this morning. We ate lunch together and Anthony (U.K.) and Fritz (Holland) came as we were finishing.
Again, the international aspect of this trail is amazing. I’ve only met three American guys so far. After lunch was a climb up to the top of a viewless mountain and then quite a steep and muddy downhill. By the time I exited the Herekino forest, it was nearing 5pm. Between the forests are much welcomed road walking stretches that provide a break from the taxing muddy forests.
Kauri trees.
I knew there was a logging road for a few miles before I’d hit a busier road. There were many spots I saw to be able to squeeze in a tent along the road and decided to go as far as I could along the logging road before stopping. About a half mile before the more paved road that would have more traffic, I came upon a good sheltered spot I couldn’t pass up. Just before a stream was an old wooden fenced in area that must have held horses or cattle at some point. I could tell people had camped in the tall grass before with a distinct path leading off the road to the old fenced area, a banana peel, and a flattened out spot in the tall grass.
I stopped at 5:30pm and had a relaxed time doing my nightly routine since it doesn’t get dark till 8:30pm out here. I made dinner on the logging road (that the trail notes say can still be in use at times) and was able to rinse all the mud off my pants and socks and lay them out to dry. I enjoyed the time to myself and feel like it’s been an eternity since I’ve been able to have this kind of space and time at camp.
This is why I chose NOT to do laundry in Ahipara. I knew this was coming.
I was finally in the mood to sew up my pack’s hip belt pocket that holds my snacks. A possum got into it about a month ago on the Bibbulmun and I’ve never gotten around to sewing it. A bar managed to fall out of it this morning. I figured it was a sign that I should finally repair it. After going over maps and trail notes for tomorrow, I started writing the blog a bit late, and must have fallen asleep sometime around 9:30pm. I awoke just after 11pm sweating quite a bit all over. My pajamas were wet and I think I was too bundled in my bag and beanie. It’s now very mild out and shockingly, there is no wind. I finished writing for an hour or so and went back to sleep at 12:30am. There is a significantly sized animal moving around that seems to be a wild pig (if that exists here). It just squealed pretty loud. I hope it doesn’t become an issue…tomorrow is the US presidential election and it feels really weird to be so removed from it all. Here are a few more from today.
I’m loving your hike and feeling the aches ! I’m with you every step of the way , in my mind . Thanks for the beautiful photography . You seem to be not only verbally gifted , but also able to capture and bring to life the beauty of the hike with your photos .
Be thankful you are removed from the chaos of today. I’ve spent the day in the dark about the exit polls, predictions and general banter the last 24 hours by not reading my regular news, listening to the radio or watching TV. I’ll find out tomorrow morning what the outcome and/or dispute is. ~ Chris
Ditto!! I’ve been in radio silence for days, as well as ignoring tv and internet ‘news’, just freaking sick of the whole thing. Unfortunately, I’ve got a horrible feeling that we’re still going to be mired in chaos no matter who wins! Jealous of you being on the other side of the world, Wired, for many reasons – especially this. :-/ That landscape photo is just dreamy!
I actually worked at the polling place from 6am, got home at 9:30pm and stayed in my bubble until I saw the morning paper..
Erin, now I realize why you like zip off pants. You can remove the mud covered leggings and clean and dry them while you wear the shorts!
How dry are your clothes in the morning? Still damp?
Exactly! They dry really fast if there’s some sun. They are pretty thin.
Erin
Absolutely loving your post, have been recording all your tit bits of information. Itching to get on the trail. How cold is it getting at night? Are you going to do a post regarding your food? Thanks for the effort your putting in on your post.
The Guthook App will be a great resource and worth the $$. It’s not cold at all at night so far and muggy. I will do a photo of a resupply sometime. I am very routine and tend to post a couple photos of resupplies each hike.
The people that shuttle significant portions of the trail can definitely “hike their own hike”. Nothing wrong with doing it however they want to, or maybe need to. But then if they say they are “thru-hiking” the trail, they’re full of crap.
People that make snide comments and judge others are also full of crap.
NZ is not America. The rest of the World does things their own way. Americans should give up expecting the TA to be another US trail.
I don’t think it’s an American vs. International thing. From my understanding the majority (or at least many) of the PCT “thru-hikers” this year also skipped every chance they got.
Calling oneself a thru-hiker and skipping sections (other than temporarily closed or dangerous sections due to fire, etc. of course) is a bit like calling oneself a peak-bagger but always turning around hundreds of feet from the summit. It’s fine, do whatever you want, but you’re not a peak-bagger.
Yep, just admit that they are cherry pickers.
That’s one way to see it…but thru-hiking isn’t a gray area. You either walk it or you don’t. Just don’t claim to be doing something you aren’t because it’s an insult to those that actually do it and value the experience of walking it all and seeing a whole country by foot.
They are cherry pickers.
Hi,
I have just caught up with your wonderful blogs/posts. I am in awe that you have started the NZ trail so soon after completing 2 trails in Western Australia. I look forward to following your journey and thank you for taking the time to do the blogs
Cool that there’s so many international hikers. You are representing USA well (better than the election did). Loved the photos of all the tents too. Stay safe.
Hey Erin kia ora!
About 2010 or so I ran into a TA long distance hiker who thought that hiking only the track sections was a thru hike and the rest could be skipped. Then read about other hikers in various seasons who chose to walk, bike, kayak, hitch, canoe or whatever best suited them. I’ve loved watching how hikers get creative about completing different sections using different transport modes. Imho that’s part of the beauty and versatility of this trail. And invariably everyone brings their own lens to the experience…
NZ is it’s own universe and after many years comparing and trying to bridge US and NZ cultures, hiking, etc. I find it easier to let each one exist on its own terms. And as always it’s interesting to see and hear different perspectives about the trail.
Long distance hiking such as TA offers is still a very new concept in the country, with as many differing opinions about how to complete it as their are hikers. Personally I prefer to embrace the HYOH philosophy and let the rest go.
And oh, welcome to NZ!
Hi Judith, yes but there is a clear line in hiking and not hiking when claiming a “thru-hike.” If you’re a tourist driving section to section you’d never say you were thru hiking so where’s the line. It’s black and white. If you skip you’re cherry picking not thru-hiking. There IS a difference. Yes, to each their own, but there is for sure a difference.
It’s great to hear your opinion on this Erin, and I totally agree with you. One should always feel free to hike however they want, but let’s reserve the label ‘thru-hike’ for those who hiked the whole trail, good and bad, easy and hard.
Finally some elevation gain/loss. -I’d hate all that muddy/rutty trail. Hope you are having fun.
Election was a big surprise for everybody.
Great to see you among the NZ forests. I have just finished the Bibbulmun track today. Thought of you C2C. Lara Pinta. Bib E2E. Good luck Erin
Kind regards
Lance
Oh yay Lance!!! Great to hear!
After a full summer of hiking, biking, and plain old life I am catching up on your exploits during the down season, at least down for me. I have to admit that I have not through read all of your posts, skipping the Australian trails, but I do plan to flip back to them later.
When I first started hiiing, I would have thought less of people who didn’t hike a complete trail than those who truly through hike. Now I’ve come around to the idea that the important thing is to enjoy the journey, and I think it’s wonderful if somebody skips a section of trail that would be hell to them and instead enjoys the hike. HOWEVER, if you don’t hike the entire trail and claim to have completed a through hike, you are lieing. While it may seem to be a lie that hurts no one, it does hurt your own credibility. Just say you enjoyed hiking the PCT or whatever trail, not that you through hiked it. It would be like me saying I climbed Mt Shasta or Mt Bailey last year. I tried. I got near the summit. But, in both instances I ended up turning around due to weather that made me uncomfortable with continuing, and I’m fine with that (mostly). I still enjoyed the climbs, but I would not say I climbed either mountain. People need to enjoy what the experience, not brag about what they have accomplished.
Good analogy Mike.
Yeah theres wild pigs here, they are afraid of people and won’t hang around if they see you.
Come on, Everybody knows continuous footprints is the most burly and authentic thru-hike. I’m all for HYOH, but everybody knows who’s really burly and who’s not.
I don’t know about burly, but it’s just the basic definition of thru-hike. You hike “through” a country. Not hike what’s most convenient.
I have been following Amanda/Zuul/Brown Girl on the PCT as she blogs .. after the fact.. her thru hike of the PCT and when she hitched into a town to resupply, she returns to the exact spot, not even across the road.. so that she doesn’t miss a step of the trail route.
So yet another who takes thru hiking seriously.
Happy New Year, by the way.
Yes! Funny thing is that I ran into her bf the last day of my Hayduke hike in 2015 and he told me about her and that he had her reading my blog. Then I overlapped with her this past summer when I was in Yosemite.
Ah, she mentioned you in passing on her blogat the time.. I had been following yours and thought you would cross paths.. and you did.
Her blog is now at the point where Spesh hiked with her for a few days… he is super cute.. both of them are. She also injured hef leg, but I do knkw she completed tge PCT in tge end.
Harder to interact when the blog is after the fact, but she had other writing to do, so I understand, but just know your approach is much appreciated.
⛺☔?
Yeah, it’s very tough to keep it up in real time.
I actually saw you in Yosemite, at Tuolumne Meadows. You were talking to Yoda, and Yoda was really excited to meet you, and y’all were having a nice conversation and I didn’t want to interrupt (though I did, quickly, to tell Yoda I had Half Dome passes). Didn’t think you knew who I was, and I figured you had stuff to do, so I didn’t want to bother you.
I admire all the writing and hiking you do! So badass. And, I’m pretty sure, magical, because I have no idea how you stay up to write all the time. I can do it three days in five, but the other two, I’m beat.
Hey! I wasn’t 100% sure and you even came by my camp later where I directed you to the short cut to the general store. Funny neither one of us fully said anything!
Zuul is also interviewed on this podcast episode from Sounds of the Trail http://www.soundsofthetrail.com/?p=368
I did go check this out.. adds a new dimension of voice..
Are you carrying a laptop? If so, what kind? Thank you for such a wonderful read! I look forward to each post!
No, I just write it all on my iPhone. I bounce my laptop to myself every 3-4 weeks to catch up on things if I can.