January 18th
Porters Creek Hut(1191.1)-St Arnaud(1208.6)
Mileage: 17.5mi/28.2km
Elevation chart courtesy of Guthook Hikes Te Araroa App.
Today was a town day! Even more exciting, it was a town day when heavy rain is on the way. It doesn’t get much better than that for motivation to get up and out in the morning. It was a great night of rare stillness camped outside last night. I woke forgetting I was even outside for a moment until I really woke up and remembered where I was. I packed up and was out at 6:25am. With dark clouds overhead, it was a darker morning, but I really liked the bluer morning colors and it was not cold out. There was a light drizzle on and off. I was able to put up the umbrella for the spurts and not worry about sweating in the rain jacket.
The trail itself was pretty rocky and brushy today, but I was in a zone and felt really fluid and rhythmic going over it. I should be tired after the past four days of pretty much constant hiking in challenging terrain, but my energy keeps going up and up the more I’m doing. I think that I’ve been so starved for this kind of hiking for so long that now I’m just feasting on it. I really liked the views today as the trail went over ridges, dropped into river valleys, then went back up a few times back to back.
One of my favorite shots this leg.
That was the pattern the first three hours of the day to the final hut, Red Hills hut. Each time, there was a drop to a valley, there was a stream or river to cross. Fortunately, the water levels were really low, so I was pretty proud that I was able to keep dry feet by rock hopping across all of them.
Looking back on the last crossing.
I was on a hiker’s high leaving the mountains. With the light pack and excitement of having made it through without a major weather incident. On the final climb, I took a moment to look back on the Richmond Range and savor this feeling I haven’t had in a long time of real hiking through mountainous terrain and feeling like I could fly. This kind of hiking really does fill me, and I’ve missed it.
Goodbye Richmond Range!
The final stretch to Red Hills Hut was through tussock and my luck with dry feet was demolished with a lot of spongy muddy terrain through the tussock. The lighting was great for tussock photos though. I do like seeing it blow in the wind when it’s windy. I realized the orange marker poles sometimes have a flat top to set the camera on for delayed shots, so I was able to get one hiking through the tussock.
The Red Hills hut is another great one with a table inside and a nice porch with great views looking back on the Richmond Range. That would be a good one to stay at to finish the range.
Immediately after the hut, it was a great gradual down for 5km on a four wheel drive road. It was perfect for running down with a light pack and had great views of the valley below. The winds were picking up and clouds were looking more threatening, so I was cruising down feeling the momentum to get to town sooner than later.
On the way down to the highway, I passed three hikers planning to hitch the 6mi/10km highway walk to town. When I got to the highway, Calvin (who I last saw on the Whanganui River section) was there attempting to hitch. We talked a bit and I headed on towards town. I now am in a bit of a bubble and seeing many hikers I last saw around the Whanganui River section or Taumarunui that hitched forward for various reasons that I figured I’d never see again. It’s so random how the chips fall and how close we all are even when it seems we are far apart. Felix and Ned are the two full thrus I know ahead of me a few days. They have teamed up and have been fun “rabbits” to chase, but I may never catch them with possible weather zeros and if I do side trips. You never know, and it’s fun to get to the logbooks at the huts and see if anyone I recognize is around. Most ahead of me, I’ve never met before.
The highway is apparently busier than it normally would be because it has become the main route since the earthquake hit a couple months ago. There was little shoulder in most places, and I just needed to step into the grass sometimes when a car was coming. It wasn’t super busy and I could often go a minute or few between cars. My legs felt amazing to stretch on the road for a couple hours and I loved the road walk to really cruise and feel free.
Halfway down the road, I got phone service for the first time in 36hrs. There are only two places to stay in St Arnaud other than a campground. With the rain, I knew it would be packed. It was noon, and the Alpine Lodge, where I sent my resupply box, was already full. I made it into one of the last available spots at the Traverse-Sabine Lodge, whew! I treated myself to a solo room really wanting space, and knowing it would be packed in the dorm room. I made it in just in time for check-in at 1pm and loved that I had the whole day to get my chores done. I immediately went down the road to grab my resupply box and eat an awesome burger at the service station. Really, the best burger I’ve had all trail. The milkshakes were terrible and I should have just gotten a chocolate milk. There was a slight reunion seeing hikers there as well and the rain started as I was eating. Just made it!
I wasn’t aware of how bad the forecast was. I saw heavy rain projected and didn’t look much more knowing I’d be in town. It turns out that overnight it will become a torrential rain and winds on the mountains will reach 150km/hr, which is major. The DOC was advising hikers not to go out this morning with intentions of waiting it out in the hut because they were worried this storm may wash out the trail or have many fallen trees over the trail that could block them in. They have to err on the side of caution, but even the TA Facebook page that rarely mentions weather warned about not going out today. That’s why it’s packed with hikers in town, and now we all will see how it goes overnight and if/when it’s good to head out for the next stretch. I’ll explain more in the next post, but it looks like this next leg may contain a zero in a hut for me. It looks like there is a short window to get a day or two in, and then another front will hit I may have to wait out before moving forward. This seems to happen to thrus a lot in this area, and it’s common to bring extra food to sit it out in the huts. Last year Why Not had to take two zeros in huts to time this upcoming section right with high passes and then water crossings down low.
After my errands and lunch, I returned to the lodge with now heavy rain falling. Last night, a solo gal from Switzerland named Kate was in the same hut as me. I realized she probably wouldn’t make it in time to get a room, and my room actually had three beds, so I told the desk to keep an eye out for her (I didn’t have her contact into) and let her know she could split my room with me. It turned out that Kate arrived a couple hours after me, and there were no vacancies. She was drenched and dejected to find that she would have to camp at the campground or hitch out to find lodging. She did have a box sent here and told the receptionist her name. Then the receptionist told her I was saving a spot for her, and she cried she was so shocked and thankful. Here’s Kate upon arrival. It was nice to be able to help someone out and give her such a surprise.
Like many, Kate is zeroing tomorrow after a tiring leg through the Richmond Range. My plan is to book it out of here as soon as the heavy rain lightens up and get as far as I can before the next front comes through. The first stretch is on cruisy trail that is safe in rain with bridges over streams, so it will be good to do tomorrow. The day after tomorrow should be clear and I can get over one of the two major passes and hopefully pull a really long day that day to see how far I can get. It’s the following day that rain may return hard again and I may take a zero or two in a hut waiting on water levels to go down for crossings. I’m in no hurry, and many around me will be doing the exact same thing gauging when to go. I will be careful and will mark where I am on my Where’s Wired tab. Know that this stretch probably doesn’t have cell reception, so it may be multiple days before I can post, but all is expected and you may see that I spend 24hrs or more in the same location. Just know it’s normal and I’m waiting out the possible front that may come through.
On that same topic, when I got reception today, I did get updates from Becky, Tom, and Christophe. They are taking a zero or two probably where I camped at Lower Waiora Hut (where the DOC guys were staying conveniently) to let the water levels go down before doing the day with the 8 river crossings. They sent me some photos, so here are a few. They are doing well and knew they’d hit this front, so they brought plenty of food to sit it out and zero in the hut.
Here is one of Becky with little Pelorus (who now has a home!).
Their summit of Mt Rintoul in fog.
Becky getting to finally have the fire she’s wanted all trail.
Well, that’s all the fun updates and excitement here. I am excited for this next section that I will hopefully see because it is the Nelson Lakes section and it should be quite scenic! Reminder, don’t worry if it’s awhile between posts. That is expected. Oh, and I’ve done my best to respond to comments. Know I read them all and am entertained:)
Nice you can afford your own room. Most hikers can’t as NZ is very expensive.
Guess you must be pretty wealthy to afford this full time hiking life.
I do work a TON and planned that I could split it with someone, so it was only $6NZ/$4.5US more than a dorm bed with a room full of people. Well worth it. What’s up with the hostility?? Those that know me know how off this assumption is and what it’s taken for me to get here and how hard I work year round to commit to this lifestyle. It was a well earned room and the first one I’ve gotten all trail with less than three people. Definitely not wealthy, just very careful about my spending and save really well for what I like to do.
Hahaha, you must be really wealthy on that substitute teacher income! Oh man…sorry people can’t be kinder when they find your blog.
Sometimes when we put words down we don’t appreciate how strong they can come across, even when not intended. Don’t know about the wealthy bit – people staying in hotels are often spending between $100 to $300 per day, plus food, for weeks at a time. Wired; thanks for sharing your thoughts and feelings, being open helps to make your blog always interesting to read. I know when I’ve been hiking with friends and we reach a shelter we hope to have it to ourselves; so we can have our own conversations and not worry about social niceties; but when we share we still have a great time meeting new people, just the awkwardness of being human.
Sally, I’m not sure what the need is for the snark there. Read the blog more and you’ll learn how Erin affords to hike – works like crazy the rest of the year, keeps her costs down. And most of the time she’s being pretty frugal, so she can splurge when the time comes. Splitting the room (which she ended up doing) also helps.
Some places have a special hiker rate – don’t know if that’s the case here.
Anyway, Erin’s capable of defending herself, just thought I’d chime in.
Best regards!
Thank you JP! You all know how hard I work for this!
Not sure what Sally’s problem is. It is a credit to you for working and saving hard to be able to live this lifestyle.
I am full of admiration for what you are doing as it takes a special person to hike this way .
Sally even if Wired was as rich as Midas what’s that got to do with you??! What an incredible rude comment!! The fact that you couldn’t be more wrong shows an awful lot about the chip on Your shoulder.
What Wired shows me is that she works hard to do the thing that she loves…..oh and let’s not forget the extremely thoughtful gesture of splitting said room with another hiker who she knew would otherwise be forced to camp.
So I guess you are right Wired is rich….rich in spirit and rich in kindness.
I agree with the comments defending Wired. I hardly call getting an ocassional room to one self in disgusting weather extravagant! Wired works hard so she can hike and we are so lucky that she spends so much time to blog and share her experience. It is one of my days highlight to read her latest post and escape for a while in her journey -one I would dearly love to be doing myself. Thanks Wired and I am so glad you made it in time to town and that Becky is safe too.
I have come across some rude people in my 69 years but this woman takes the cake. What’s your problem lady did they confuse your fundamental orifice with your brain at birth. Or is it you are too lazy to work as hard as Erin obviously does to be able to do what she enjoys. Take your rattlesnake and shake it’s tail elsewhere.
Sally after Karen…god sake kiwis males must be terrible lovers to leave such angry women around…
Good on you Erin..well deserved a comfy room when it is pouring outside..great decisions as usual
It’s incredibly hard to blog in this much detail constantly. I hopeErindoes get rich but as I’ve read her for a few years now I know what the truth is.
Wow Sally….someone woke up on the wrong side of the bed. What’s up with taking a bite at Wired? That is uncalled for in so many ways. Erin works hard when she’s not on the trail and works equally as hard to plan these trips to save money where she can. She is not a wealthy woman (sorry Erin). She shows everyone that these hikes can be done on a budget.
Remember to take all of your stuff (electronics, umbrella, sunglasses, etc) when you leave town.
Transitions are when I lose stuff.
Happy trails!
For sure!
So what?
Trail magic for Kate. Good onya. I’ve been reading David Miller’s book AWOL on the Appalachian Trail where he mentions trail magic a few times.
Thanks for reppin the US so well. Giving up your spot in the huts and saving hotel beds for other hikers shows class.
As a Swiss I can tell you, that it is a shock for us, when somebody thinks ahead and reserves a spot for us – in Switzerland that will never happen. We are filthy rich for a reason, you learn to save up from the rich, at least in Switzerland there is no free lunch at all. 99.9 % of all Swiss would be proud of themselves for being clever enough to have reserved a spot in advance and being faster than everybody else, so they must hitch/camp in the rain after a long day of hiking. So even if Kate has heard from this kindness in advance, it is understandable that she was still shocked. Thank you again for having done something that cost you a little inconvenience but resulted in a great and welcome surprise to my co-citizen! I follow your blog for a while now. Nobody else in the thru-hiking world has the energy for such an impressive writing at the end of the days. There are blogs who come close to this one, but they are written months after the hikes at home, out of the comfy living room. It is even more impressive given the miles you do.
A lot of salty comments from NZ
I would have cried too. Most backpackers if they hike far enough become rich, but in a good way. Thanks Erin!!
I really don’t know what’s up with this summer, Erin or should I say, so called summer! I heard yesterday though on National Radio (a bastion of good information) that they expecting the weather to finally settle down in a week or so and be much more stable through Feb and March. All these crazy SW systems. Urgh.
Lovely kindness from you too re the room.
Heads up.
Looks like Erin has headed off into Nelson lakes Park…
theres no cell phone coverage at least until she hits the road near Lewis Pass. and she may have a zero day or two with bad weather. so there won’t be any updates from her for several days if she can go all the way through
No worries Erin will make it for sure
.just need a few hours of clear weather to go up Waiau pass then after that it is all flat in a valley so can walk through in the rain…the upcoming Deception river part is an awesome one…go Erin go…
You should all chill out a bit.
You’ve got to admit Sally that your comment was a bit insensitive especially at a time when Erin was being so kind to another walker.
Well why don´t YOU?!?
Or better yet, why don´t you work hard enough to get “pretty rich” and enjoy full time hiking life? MIght be a tad more difficult than posting comments, though.
This should have been posted as a reply to Sally´s comment, obviously.
Sally, at least you are consistently snarky, but unfortunately that means your comments are so often a downer.
I am happy to see that I am not the only one wanting to let Erin know how we feel about her efforts, and that what we observe is someone accomplishing so much.
The children who get her as a sub, and those who have her as a nanny.. and her sweet nephews are all the better for having Erin as a role model.
As for someone who actually is “pretty rich”, so what?
Very good example here on how a experienced hiker (Wired) processed the weather informations and made it through Mt Rintoul with good weather frame…versus amateurs/non experienced people (Becky s crew) doing the Mt Rintoul in the worst possible timing…luckily and finger crossed was just fog for this time…
well not from what i’ve read here and what i know from being a kiwi tramper. its a long time frame to get through the richmond ranges and hard to make it right through without some bad weather, Becky was planning for some zero days due to bad weather and she had an updated forecast part way through the ranges, from what Erin has blogged, Becky planned to take longer to get through even without the zero days.
the weather has cleared now and she shouldnt be too many days away from coming out of the Richmond Ranges.
erin has built up really solid fitness and endurance with her years of thru hiking around the States, you can’t expect Becky to be able to match that fitness every day on her first thru hike and you it’s good to hike your own hike and enjoy the trail rather than go at someone elses pace….
Interesting that our troll is posing as a Kiwi, under several different aliases on the same page, hilarious. True to form always posting some sort of demeaning or salacious remark about Wired, Becky or ‘foreigners’ hiking the TA. If I was from NZ I’d be embarrassed by this poser not representing their country properly, if he’s/she’s really a Kiwi that is. Seems like by their comments here they’re a disgruntled interloper, whereas most Kiwis Wired has met are warm and inviting to travelers. Regarding Wired, she actually works 2 jobs to be able to do this, she often gives her time, efforts and inspiration to educate, inform and promote thru hiking to the public at large-out the goodness of her heart. It’s too bad our troll has nothing better to do with their time.
Sally is probably some poor obese piece of shit that only has enough money for MacDonalds and will never get to experience great things in life. Fuck her and the many like her out there.
Could you please dig a very deep cat hole and put your hate in it. Thank you
Hello Wired, I have been quietly following along with you on your adventures for some time now. I thought perhaps now would be an opportune time to say how much I enjoy your blog. Thank you for sharing your experiences and all the best for the rest of your walk on the TA.
Aww, thank you!!
When you bring attention to the “off” comments of others you take away from the purpose of this blog. I have been following Wired for a few years. Love reading her posts. Lets focus on that. I believe we lower the importance of the blog when we attack or try to defend what Wired is doing for all of us. Good day to you Sally
Thank you Rick!
The 3rd picture from the top is AMAZING. Seriously. I want that framed in my office so I can stare at it all day 🙂
Also, saving that spot for Kate totally made me tear up. You’re such a softie 😉 I hope you’re not getting too wet right now!
The ” Off ” comments are sort of funny to me just because they are so out of place. It give me the chuckles. It also shows that the person commenting has little prior knowledge of this blog. I have to liken it to some of the gamer’s out there that will make life hard for the newbies and their inability to play some games.. Mw3 comes to mind…
Maybe a disclaimer header/sticky could be added suggesting a few posts to get them get introduced to Wired so they have better perspective? (IE. New to this blog?? read here, here, here or here). Or.. a reference to the About page to help the newbs and a suggestion to reading some select posts prior to commenting? I guess trolls will always be trolls eh? Hope everyone is giggling along and making light of it. It’s nice to see the positive still outweighs the negative.
Erin.. I see you still had your sunglasses ? and umbrella ☔ Nice that your ? can sit on a pole for certain shots, but don’t leave it behind.
Thanks for the Becky update. Good to know she and the guys have extra food and were wisely watching the weather.
Kudos to Wired. Your cheerful goodheartedness and generosity will always precede you. All that know and love you are backing your play. The grouchy blip on the radar not worth even a second’s notice except to practice compassion for a poor soul who is not a happy soul obviously. Then we all move on down the trail. Rock on Wired! What a hike of a lifetime! Just beautiful , thank you for sharing with those of us waiting for spring back home.
So much fun to get to go along with you on this fabulous adventure. Glad that once in a while you allow yourself a special treat – You certainly deserve it. Following you through your many thru hikes has always been extremely interesting and enjoyable. Not everyone knows how hard you work and how much planning goes into making these adventures possible. We all have the capability of sacrificing some things to make things we love to do a higher priority. Continue on with your dreams and with including us in them.
Yes, Erin is rich. In character, kindness, and caring. If you would take some of your time to read her blog, you’ll clearly see this. Go to her “About” page to learn more about her. What that About page won’t tell you is that Erin works two jobs 60-hours a week and lives pretty frugally, but you can find it in the blog. She works hard so she can play hard; cliche but the living truth. So ya, Erin is rich and everybody knows it, just not in the way you are implying. And really, whose business is it anyways? So Sally, please provide positive feedback or just move along. You want to be treated with respect but so does Erin and everyone in this community who loves to follow and support Erin.
Absolutely right you are, Warren!
I am very busy but it is all volunteering and super rewarding in ways non-monetary.
Erin gives to so many in terms of showing how to live a motivated and experience-rich life, and that life is best lived in the present tense as long as that is possible.
Good to hear of Erin’s progress, too.
SPOILER ALERT: UPDATE ON ERIN’S LOCATION
if you can’t interpret the map on the where’s erin page, i can tell you she checked into Blue Lake hut, which is the last hut before Waiau pass which is the biggest challenge for this leg of her trip.
she should have enough time to get over the pass on Saturday our time before the next round of bad weather arrives late on saturday afternoon…
there is some fresh snow around on the mountains, but its not that deep, she has already negotiated Travers saddle. Waiau pass is a bit higher. but the snow may not pose that much of a problem. once over the Waiau pass and the upper waiau river the travel gets easy following the valleys down to Lewis pass road. which is still a good half a week away
Wow, some of these trolls are nasty.
It might pay to set your account up, so as you can moderate posts, prior to them being published.
Hopefully you can ban/block the trolls also.
Yep, blocking seems to work once we catch on. I have it monitored, but sometimes takes a bit if we aren’t checking all the time.
SPOILER ALERT
so how about that waiau pass, Erin should be climbing about now,, 1870m, I believe its the second highest point of the whole Te Araroa Trail…. there’s bound to be an interesting blog behind that one and hopefully a great view to show for it….
SPOILER ALERT, LOCATION UPDATE
so Erin has got over the Waiau Pass and a long way down the Waiau valley and is at one of the huts there.. sunday in NZ might be a zero day with all the rain expected, but shes a days walk from the road at Lewis Pass
I’m loving these updates for everyone Wayne!
no probs, the map for the tracker doent have labels on it , so its hard or people to work out exactly whre things are at
stay tuned erin and i’ll tell you what happens next 😉
I find that sometimes it lets me zoom in to the location, but sometimes it won’t. and on the spikey elevation graph it will show a location, the the next time I look, nothing.
So your updates are appreciated, Wayne.
Erin, great to see you checking in!!
I hope your zero is magic and there is chocolate milk.
Thanks for the awesome updates Wayne!
Thanks Wayne! It is a little hard to interpret the Where’s Wired map and flesh out where she is. I’ve been cross referencing it with Why Not’s site, day 76-79, which helps. Very rugged and beautiful country, I can see why so many hike the TA. Even with the weather, what a grand place to be in the world.
Thanks for the updates Wayne. Is it really bad weather there at the moment? Or is it coming?
the bad weather came back yesterday afternoon, theres rain today and high winds forecast for the next few days, and more rain in a few days.w
today could be a zero for erin, theres lots of side streams that might get too hard to cross if the rain is heavy enough, Becky is at St Arnaud deciding what she will do
Thanks for the info mate.
Hi Erin,
Hope you are safe out there!
We are waiting out the weather in Nelson.
Becky, thanks for checking in, too. When you got a big sister in Erin, you inherited a whole lot of online family that comes with Erin. So we love hearing you are ok.
We will all be happy to hear from Erin when she gets back to WiFi or a mobile connection.
Erin has checked in on the Lewis Pass road, watch this space.
she may hitch to Hanmer Srings township nearby next.
Correct! In Hamner, showered, and fed now. Well earned zero tomorrow!
Wish this blog had a like button … like for all the positivity ,like for Becky checking in and knowing she is safe , like for Erin being as “rich” as she is -in attitude and kindness , like that Erin is plodding along in the face of “adversity ” -and a huge huge like for the continued blog updates …. , oh and one more for Wayne’s updates ! What wonderful people you all are .
Oh I for sure “like” this comment!
Liking all of Kate’s likes and Kate’s post..
Great post Erin! Loved getting the update from Becky, and hearing about how you were able to provide some trail magic for Kate 🙂 love that kind of positivity!