April 21, 2018
Just a reminder to everyone that I’m doing brief weekly summaries from the Great Himalaya Trail through inReach satellite messenger device. Again THANK YOU to my good friend Julie for typing these up and posting them while I’m out of range. The goal is to have some of the daily blog posts up by May 1st when I will possibly get enough service to post some.
This week was full of many literal and figurative ups and downs. It unfortunately started off with Griggs unable to shake the mystery ailment that was zapping his energy, possibly the flu or the altitude or a combo. As Buck-30 and I continued on (with our guide Kishor) to hit two major passes, Griggs returned to Kathmandu, which required 3 days of hiking, a bus, and waiting 24 hours for skies to clear enough for a plane to takeoff. He just got to KTM today and is planning to meet us in another week in Lukla to continue on. Not having a continuous hike is tough for any of us, but we know this hike is very different. It is one reason we have 3 of us. Any of us can get sick and need to wait a leg or section to recover.
Buck-30 and I went over the snowy and foggy Nango La Pass at 15,600 ft/4755 m. Then we had an unexpected zero day at a tea house due to foul weather when we needed to be properly setup for Lumbha Sambha Pass at 16,926 ft/5159 m, our highest point yet. We said goodbye to our Kanchenjunga region guide, Kishor, two days before the pass. It was a good test for Buck-30 and me. We survived! Now we are diving back down to the heat and steep terrain for the upcoming week as we take the lower route around some technical passes we knew we were not going to attempt.
The trail is really relentless with VERY SLOW progress. All we have are the grossly underestimated mileages from the CalTopo track Buck-30 created from home since the guidebook doesn’t do mileages. We are lucky to make 10 of those miles that are likely 10-20% more with the countless steep ups and downs. Good news is that both our stomachs were fine this week, and we got to tent 3 times, and we are still on schedule. Bad news is we may fall behind schedule at this pace, we are sometimes feeling like our time may run out by the time monsoon season hits us in a couple months. We never get an easy mile, (or even step it seems,) and I have a nagging pulled muscle in my inner thigh that I’m reminded of with every step.
I look forward to hopefully getting more of the details and photos out there in the next couple weeks. I hope that by next week’s summary, I will report that our trail legs have finally kicked in. We are desperately waiting for that to magically happen one day because this terrain is relentless! Did I mention that it’s relentless!?
Here are some fun stats from Buck-30:
Buck-30’s The Numbers Say……
# of nights in a tent:3
# of nights in a teahouse: 11
# of of nights that I’ve been soothed to sleep by Nepali techno music blasting: 2
# of times Kishor, our guide, answered a question, ” Maybe yes, maybe no”: 50+
# of times I’ve said “namaste,” one of the only two Nepalese words I know: 300+
# of days we’ve had either knee shattering descents, lung bursting, ascents, or both: 12 out of 14 days (we had two zero days)
# of miles that have been flat out of 116 mi: Maybe 1?
# of days we have exceeded 11.5 mi of hiking: 1, the first day downhill
# of lbs a porter today was carrying: 80+lbs
# of days I feel like I’m not going to be able to finish this trail before the monsoon hits, my visa is up, or I accidentally step off the trail and fall 2,000 ft to my death: 14 out of 14
-Buck-30
You three are totally amazing! Namaste!
hope the obsession of completing, to thru hike will fade with time and that you start getting enlightement and enjoy yourselves and be grateful. big up to the Nepali porters and guides
I cannot get over how tough, determined, brave, strong, etc. You three are. I also cannot imagine what it must be like to do what you’re doing, feel what your feeling, as I travel comfortably across the country in an rv, in the desert, leisurely taking in views and small hikes. You do a great job of bringing me into your experience reading your blog and I always look forward to the next. I am routing for you! You got this.
Onward. Blessings! It is what it is—you are fortunate to be there!
The Himalayas are the real thing, aren’t they?!
Well done to get so far and I cannot wait to see how one of the world’s best hikers copes with the world’s most serious mountain range. Good luck Erin!
I’m a long-time reader and I love that all of you are living life to the fullest in the Himalayas. I, for one, can see how grateful you are to be there, and that you are indeed “enlightened” because you know enough to “suck the marrow out of life” and have both the courage and energy to get out there and LIVE. And sure, you are all fortunate to be there, but you WORKED for it, it didn’t just fall in your laps as a free vacation. Namaste!
Keep in mind that the more suffering presents itself, the more there are opportunities to grow and learn, as I’m sure you know! It sounds like y’all are in good spirits, which matters more than anything. Sending well-wishes to Griggs, and patience and joy for all 3 of you! <3
Enjoy Nepal! Thanks for sharing the hike with us. The Everest region is really special–you’re going to love it! Wishing you all good health on the journey!
Wow. You continue to amaze me. Buck-30’s list blows my mind. If anybody can do this, you can.
WHOA….Glad your stomach isn’t the one causing problems!
Aww, sorry that Griggs was brought down, but hope to hear he is back with the trio when next you report!
And definitely looking forward to your wonderful posts when that is possible.
Thankful it has only been 2 nights (so far) of blasting Nepali Techno Music. ?
You are doing the most primitive area first. It will get better soon.
In Nepal the valleys are north-south. The Everest and Annapurna treks are easy.
Oxygen levels/sealevel- 75% at 2300m, 60% at 4000m, 50% at 5500m.
Nevertheless, she persisted.
Namaste Wired, Buck-30 and in absentia, Griggs. It was good to read Andrew’s post. The radical ups and downs will moderate…. should get easier. To share my mother’s favorite phrase, “It will all work out.”
I saw, most of, this coming. 😉 The elevation map was the greatest tell.
I am thrilled once again to see the usual group of people criticizing someone for doing what they want to do with their life / free time / money as well as the know-it-alls. Hard to say who I enjoy reading more, but always astounding how many people are forced to read this website against their will
Go Erin. Go Buck-30. Go Griggs.
How anyone can read their sites and think these people are ungrateful is insane
Griggs has been here before and done well with it, he’s recovering nicely and will be back on the trail in fine shape. These three make intelligent choices and are extremely resilient, they make for an awesome team. Safe and wonderful journey, all!
Oh for sure, Mom, I have the greatest faith in the talents of this group.. Just know spirits will be even higher WHEN Griggs is back with them. He is that special.
As for Griggs not being able to hike a bit of the trail … All for One, One for All (hope this is correct in English, Alexandre Dumas, Three Musketeers). You´re such a great, strong and resilient team. Glad to hear Griggs is getting better.
Stay strong and enjoy the hike!
Even the hike from Lukla to E base camp when we were in our early 70’s was tough. I can imagine what is is like for you. Ah, for the piece of cake that is the Muir Trail!
Looks like you have been enjoying some GREAT mileage the last few days down to the valley floor! That is one HUGE drop. Hope that is dispelling concerns about progress, getting trail-legs, and running out of time. Excited to read how things are going!
OMG! Buck_30’s on a roll! So entertaining, love his wry sense of humor! Now I’m going to go thru withdrawals if I have to wait a week for the next installment… hope more photos appear later, the people and the scenery in the Himalayas are so intriguing. So glad you have each other, and speedy recovery for Griggs. You all are amazing : )
How is your Katabatic gear Sawatch 15 quilt working out? Especially when tenting. I have the KG Palisade 30 and planning a trip to Nepal/India later this summer so I’m looking .for a warmer quilt, but don’t want to over do it and buy a heavier bag than I need. I love KG, but they are also pricey! How is it compared to a comparable temp rated ZPacks quilt?
Thanks!
Stay strong! And enjoy. Learn ‘Didi’ for older sister/women (as in ‘Namaste Didi’) as it will make them smile even more. And you can say ‘Bai’ for younger brother and ‘Dai’ for older brother and ‘Bahini’ for younger sister. They are great vocab words to know. Enjoy it – it will get easier as you connect with the Khumbu and once you get to Kagbeni you will be flying. Pistale Janu hos (go slow!).
Will Griggs do the section that he skipped? It won’t be a thru hike for him otherwise. Hope he gets better soon and manages to backtracks. #joinfootprints
I think Griggs has been there before, so perhaps he did that section?
Where’s Griggs? https://www.instagram.com/p/BiCWXLLlt3j/?ndid=56acc20f72dedG24bc2dfaed5b55G56acc6a8d30bfG34b&utm_source=instagram&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=digest_email&target_user_id=4830993237&__bp=1
And prior to that he addresses not claiming a thru hike.
Oops.. The prior link
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bh5jGxwlTVu/?ndid=56acc20f72dedG24bc2dfaed5b55G56acc6a8d30bfG34b&utm_source=instagram&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=digest_email&target_user_id=4830993237&__bp=1
You gotta want it. And these three do. Massive respect. Prayin’ the hiking legs have set in.
Go Erin, Go Buck-30, Go Griggs, Go!!!!